Archive for November, 2008

I do not have a horse yet; I'm trying to figure out how much money I need to feed a horse. I live in a desert, so I can't have any green pasture.

The rule of thumb for feeding horses is 1 lb of feed for every 100 lbs of body weight. The average 1000 lb trail horse should get 10 lbs of feed daily. If you are feeding exclusively hay, each flake is about 2 lbs, so about 4 flakes daily is adequate. Note if you are feeding any grain, you need to take this into account and decrease the amount of hay accordingly.
So for a week, that'd be about 28 flakes, or close to 2 full bales, depending on what type fo hay you are using and how big the bales are. Note that alfalfa hay weighs much more than grass hays by the flake so you'll need to adjust this a bit.

A riddle in the Jokes and Riddles section asked how a horse tied to a 15 foot rope could reach a hay bail from 25 feet away. The answer is (question is resolved) that the other end of the rope was not tied to anything. While that answer is plausible, and a horse with a rope tied to it would not always be secured to a stationary object, I'm not sure that it is the logical answer.

I am uncertain about this because it seems to me that the inference from the question is that the horse is secured by the rope, and that this is more probably the case than not, as there would not exist an implied problem if the horse was not so secured.

I suppose you could interpret my question as asking what is the most logical, if that can be asked, answer to a question like the one above?

Is the answer an example of "Occam's Razor?"
eferrell01, I can't argue otherwise, but it still strikes me as peculiar, even if it is the only logical answer. To me, I wouldn't argue wrongly, the rope should be tied to something stationary, or effectively so.
Well, I now accept the answer, as I indicated before. I do wonder if there are cases where the obvious inference cannot be removed and not effect the scenario. I've clearly found a weakness in my own reasoning skills, not that there might not be more.

Sure. That's exactly the point of the joke. You assume that the rope is tied to something else. Yet, nothing in the wording of the question says so.
It's a good example of Occam's Razor applied. Occam razor says any entity that can be removed and still leave you with a proper description of a state of affairs should be eliminated from a theory explaining a state of affairs. In this case, the pole, to which you assume the horse is tied, is unnecessary to describe 'a horse tied to a 15 foot rope'. You eliminate it and are left with a horse that can easily go where it pleases.

I have been around horses for quite some years but I have never heard this allergic reaction described as hay fever (as in the same problem that humans suffer with). I don’t get it myself, for which I am very grateful, but I do have friends that do, and can see the misery it causes, so I can assume that it is equally uncomfortable for a horse. Although the season is closing, I thought I’d still take a look at what it’s all about so you can be on the lookout for it nest year.
Apparently it’s a fairly common condition seen in young and old horses alike, and it’s an allergic Respiratory Disease. Unlike humans, horses that have allergies tend to show more flu like symptoms and less sinus and nasal effects. Their lungs become inflamed and are more likely to get viral and bacterial infections. The horse owner sees this as frequent (recurrent) ‘chest colds’ that the horse never quite gets over, as I did, before I heard that it was in fact a form of hay fever. Other symptoms include coughing, a lot of eye discharge and they get tired easily.

There are many causes of allergic Respiratory Disease but some are more common. Several types of mould spores and weeds found in otherwise high quality hay or straw seem to bother many horses. This is a seasonal thing, so for the horse at pasture the problem may only be seen in spring and summer. However, hay that is taken from local fields can be a year round problem. Each year, the horse usually shows more symptoms as its reaction to the problem gets stronger and stronger.

Treatment of this problem can be as simple as keeping your horse outside where air circulation is available (fresh air versus stagnant dust filled air). If your horse must stay in the stall most or all of the time, try to store your hay in a separate place and ensure good airflow in the barn. If it is cold, put a blanket on the horse and soak the hay fed to the horse in water first.
If the problem is not taken care of by the above steps, then you need to speak to your Vet. To find out the cause, the vet can do a simple procedure that looks at the fluid and cells in the horse’s lungs to see how bad the allergy is. Secondly, there is a relatively new blood test that can specifically determine what ‘things’ the horse is allergic to and allows them to find a ‘customized’ treatment for that individual horse. Other general treatments include corticosteroids (cortisone) and bronchodilators (like those taken by human asthma patients). The important thing to realize is that recognizing your horse has this problem is more than half the battle. Once that is done, proper treatment can dramatically improve the usefulness of your horse.

I was very grateful when it was pointed out to me, although I will admit to feeling a bit stupid at the time. However now I know what it is, I can deal with it, so a little stupidity has bought me some knowledge that I can now use to keep my beautiful horses in better health, so that’s a price I will gladly pay any time.

ok my bf got some hay for his horse turned out it had this type of flower in it. the flower is a light purple color and the bud is an off white color. its not stickery or poky. i've never seen this in hay before. can any tell me what it might be and if its ok for horses to eat?
it is just regular grass hay. some just have buds and some have the whole flower bloomed out.
i've looked a pics of clover and it don't look the same. the bale is move this flower than hay.

It sounds like some sort of clover, don't worry about it. Horses aren't stupid and they won't eat something they shouldn't. Haven't you ever noticed the plants growing tall in the pasture, while the rest of it is very short?

They are selective, even when it come to that flake of hay given for breakfast. I watch my horses separate the flake sometimes, going so far as to fling the rejected hay out of their stall or outdoor bin.

I need to know how much hay i need to buy every month

It depends on the horse and if you have pasture that the horse can graze on. And how active you are in riding. The more active a horse is, the more food they generally need.

I have a 2300 lbs. Percheron gelding that I just do very basic trail riding etc. He gets 3-4 flakes of hay in the morning, then he gets pasture turn out for about 8 hours and then he gets 3-4 flakes in the evening plus about 2.5 lbs. of packer pellets (compact alfalfa pellets because he's not allowed grain).

I'll be increasing his activity now that summer is getting here.

The 'light' horses at the barn are on the same schedule but they get 2 flakes of hay twice a day. If the horses have to be in their stalls all day because of rain or other bad weather – they get feed three times a day.

One ton of hay should last you awhile if you have pasture and one horse. Otherwise you'll to purchase it more often.

Saber a miniature horse shares his hay with Harlequin Great Dane pal, Rooster

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And how many flakes are in an average bale of hay?

You figure on what hay you are feeding, grass vs alfalfa, then you figure your horses body weight, then you figure the weight in hay they need.

Once you have those numbers, then we can help you more.

Allergy is the most common illness in the world. It is characterized by the immune system’s reaction to substances that are viewed by the body as potentially harmful. The body launches an attack on these substances which is manifested by the symptoms experienced in an allergy attack. There are many substances that can cause an allergic reaction. Among them are peanuts, shellfish, eggs, milk, dust, insect bites and pollen.

Also known as allergic rhinitis, hay fever is usually characterized by an allergic reaction to pollen. The illness is named after the “haying season” when pollen grains in the air are in abundance. Since pollen carried by the wind is the more popular culprit, you should be aware of the most common plants releasing these pollen grains in the air. Trees including birch, alder, hazel, hornbeam, horse chestnut, willow, poplar, plane, lime and olive cause hay fever. Among these, birch and olive pollen are the most dominant. On the other hand, grass pollen from rye and timothy are responsible for about 90% of the total hay fever cases.

Effects of hay fever vary form person to person. Some experience mild reactions while others suffer severe reactions. Symptoms of the illness include coughing, headache, itching nose, runny nose and sneezing. You might also experience impaired smelling functions and sensitivity to flavors. Your eyes will water from the irritation in your nose. Sore throat, wheezing and conjunctivitis are also common reactions.

Hay fever is usually diagnosed by determining the patient’s history of symptoms. Your doctor will ask you the frequency of your symptoms, severity and onset. Changes in your diet, exposure to pets and allergens as well as weather conditions will all be considered in the evaluation for hay fever. Skin testing is also performed to determine specific sensitivity to particular allergens. Since cross-reactivity is normal, your doctor will naturally check you for reactions to cross-reacting substances.

To prevent hay fever, you should avoid being exposed to pollen. If you must go outdoors, try to wear a protective face mask for filtering pollen. You should also avoid going out during the early mornings and evenings when pollen levels are high. When drying your clothes, never put them outside where they can be exposed to pollen. The pollen will attach to the clothes you placed outside for longer than a moment and if you wear these clothes it’s possible that you could have an allergic reaction. Another activity you should avoid is mowing your lawn. This activity will disperse pollen in the air, increasing your chances for a hay fever attack. Some doctors recommend putting little cream on the nostrils and around the eyes to prevent pollen from entering these areas.

There are currently several available medications for treating symptoms of hay fever. These include fast-acting antihistamines, short-acting antihistamines, longer-acting antihistamines, leukotriene receptor antagonists, corticosteroid nasal sprays, topical decongestants, cromolyn sodium, allergy shots and herbal remedies. Any of these medications can relieve symptoms of hay fever effectively. You should make sure that when taking these medications, you will not be driving or operating heavy machineries since drowsiness can be experienced when taking medication like antihistamines.

Winter Horse Care

For most of us Winter and Summer mean totally different routines with our horses.

The change from 24 hour turnout to a mix of stabling and turnout can be as disruptive to you horse as it is to you, so keeping it interesting and workable for both is important.

Find a routine that is manageable for you; your horse will adapt, so donâ??t set yourself goals you cannot achieve.

Enlist the help of other riders, friends and family â?? dark nights and early mornings can get pretty tiring by the end of Winter and itâ??s nice to be able to take turns to have a night off or a lie in.

Try to do as much as possible when you have spare time, as leaving things until the last minute does not allow leeway for the unexpected.

I always make my feeds up in the morning, then if I get held up, someone can put a feed in for me, rather than end up with an agitated horse wondering where her tea is.

Fresh air and/or good ventilation are major requirements for horses. They can tolerate considerable cold if they can move around and are dry. Avoid drafts, but allow sufficient air exchange to move stale air, humidity, and ammonia out of the horse’s environment.

Keeping the stable clean will keep ammonia levels low and there are some very good products available that destroy ammonia without harming your horse, even if ingested. I use a fresh smelling product that can be sprinkled onto the rubber matting or mixed in with the bedding. It not only reduced the bacteria but smells nice too.

Try to turn your horse out as much as possible. The lucky ones will have an area for adequate exercise well drained or with a hard standing area and access to a shelter. Most of us however will probably make do with a muddy paddock, but that can be better than standing in for hours. Remember to still have your horses hooves checked regularly, and pick out mud and stones when they come in as they will be uncomfortable and potentially cause damage to your rubber matting if you have it.

You may need to clip your horse according to how much exercise it is getting but then you will need to rug up to compensate. My horse usually has a full clip at the end of Autumn then a blanket re-clip later in Winter, as she grows a very heavy coat and is a hot horse when exercising.

Donâ??t neglect your grooming just because your horse is rugged up. Itâ??s a good idea to take rugs off daily and check for any rubs or damage. Dry mud will brush off easily with a stiff brush and I find that applying a bit of coat shire mud repellent lotion really helps. I find it very soothing to have a chat with my horse whilst grooming her â?? sheâ??s a great listener and it makes up for the reduced time we spend riding.

The change of diet from grass to hay/haylage can cause colic or digestive upsets, so try to make the change gradually. As Autumn sets in the grass will probably be very sparse anyway so you could start to put out some hay/haylage in the field. Keep an eye on your horseâ??s condition through the Winter and adjust the quantity or type of feed, depending on whether your need to increase or decrease your horseâ??s weight. Better to keep it under control, than to have to suddenly make drastic adjustments. Be particularly careful if you have a horse that could be potentially laminitic.

Ensure that you horse has access to drinking water, particularly when temperatures drop and external water supplies may freeze. I have read that warming water to at least 60 degrees F will increase water consumption by 40 percent to 100 percent. Dehydration (lack of water) is apparently the chief cause of impaction colic in horses.

Try to maintain a programme of exercise for your horse that fits in with your lifestyle. You may be restricted to road work, but a good brisk walk will do wonders for your horseâ??s fitness, and avoids risking damage from too much trotting on hard ground. Do plenty of flexion exercises at the walk and trot using leg yield and shoulder in if you can find a safe quiet lane. If you have access to a schooling area, use the time to do some groundwork exercises, lunging, free schooling or long reining.

Remember to warm your horse up slowly and thoroughly before asking for serious work. You may need to use an exercise sheet to keep the hind-quarters warm, and they have the added benefit of providing protection from the rain and if you use one of the fluorescent ones, aid visibility to other road users.

Hot horses need to be cooled down thoroughly then brushed to stand the hair up again before turning them back out. Fluffy hair traps air and keeps the horse warm; hair plastered down flat or wet lets body heat escape.

Adapting your routine to take into account weather changes, work schedule, turnout schedule, and feeding programs mean that there is no reason not to enjoy your horse as much in Winter as in Summer.

Nancy Griffiths

2007

Closeup view of a horse’s mouth pulling strands of hay from a net bag. The bag is the small-mesh hay net from Dover, with the tie rope removed. It is snapped closed with five double-ended snaps.

Update: Jewel and Stella really enjoy this hay feeder. They’ve had it for three days now, and they did bite through one strand in the net. It is served to them in an empty water tank, but doesn’t stay there long, as they like to move it along the ground. I think they like it better than the wooden hay cribs (boxes) because they have a comparatively wider field of vision when using it.

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